From Terriers to Toys and Everything In Between

Emilee Brewer

Last time, we touched on the sporting, hound, and working dog groups. Next up are the terrier, toy, non-sporting, herding, and miscellaneous groups. Buckle up for another informative look into the different breeds! 

Starting off, we’ve got the terrier group. The terriers were bred for hunting, killing vermin, and guarding homes. These guys are feisty and stubborn. Their sizes are all over the place, with some of them being fairly small, like the Cairn Terrier, and others being larger, such as the American Staffordshire Terrier. Terriers are a hard-headed bunch, so be prepared for some pushback during training. Once you get them on your side, though, terriers make excellent pets! 

Next up, the toys. The little guys with big personalities. According to the AKC, toy dogs are affectionate, sociable, and can easily adapt to a wide variety of lifestyles. Dogs in the toy group make excellent apartment dogs since they don’t take up much space and they can easily fit in your lap. The toy breed features a wide range of dogs like the Havanese, Chihuahua, and the Italian Greyhound. The main requirement to fall into this category is weighing 15 pounds or less, with some even being as small as four pounds fully grown!

We touched on the sporting group, and now it’s the non-sporting group's turn! Non-sporting covers a lot of dogs, so it’s hard to pinpoint a distinct look or personality. These dogs are usually excellent watchdogs and house dogs. They don’t require nearly as much exercise as their sports counterparts, so they make for a great walking buddy and even just someone to keep you company. Non-sporting dogs include the charming bulldog, the regal shar pei, and even the ever-loyal Dalmatian. 

The herders, as the name implies, love to herd things. They have an instinctual need to control their environment and round up any and everything in the room (including the kids!). Herders were bred to gather and protect livestock and they are damn good at their jobs. They are very intelligent dogs and take their duties seriously. Often used in police departments, the Belgian Malinois and German Shepherd both fall into the herding group. There’s also the Australian Cattle Dog, Border Collie, and the Bergamasco Sheepdog. 

Last but very much not least, the miscellaneous group! Basically, this group is any breed of dog not recognized by the AKC and that doesn’t quite fit into the other groups. Some really fun breeds fall into this group including the Czechoslovakian Vlcak, the Kai Ken, and the Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka. 

As previously stated, you always want to research the breed before deciding on what to adopt. Consider your lifestyle! Someone who lives a more sedentary lifestyle probably wouldn’t do well with a Malinois, but may have the best life with a basset hound! Conversely, don’t pick a bulldog for your marathoning buddy. And even then, while each breed has expected traits and energy levels, every dog is unique, and they may not meet their “breed standard”. Research and meet and meet-and-greets are your best friends when picking your canine companion. 

Sporting, Hounds, and Working Groups! Oh My!

Emilee Brewer

Humans have bred dogs for thousands of years. We’ve bred them for a number of reasons like hunting, guarding, and herding. Humans carefully selected specific traits and characteristics best suited for the task at hand. According to the AKC, there are several different groups a dog can belong to: sporting, hound, working, terrier, toy, non-sporting, herding, and even a miscellaneous group. Today we will look at the sporting, hound, and working groups. 

Sporting dogs are active and alert. They were first bred to work alongside hunters to help locate and retrieve game. In the sporting group are spaniels, pointers, retrievers, and setters. These breeds enjoy hunting and have excellent instincts in the woods and water. Most of them even have water-repellant coats! These sporty dogs do require a lot of regular exercise so be prepared for lots of moving and grooving if you adopt one of these pups. 

 The next grouping of dogs is the hounds. Much like their sporting counterparts, these guys were also used for hunting. They have an acute sense of smell to help them follow an animal’s trail. Hounds encompass quite a large number of different dogs. From coonhounds to beagles to borzoi, this is one of the largest groups of breeds. They’re quite diverse! As a warning, listen to these dogs howl before deciding to adopt one. They’re a majestic lot, but they make a lot of noise and will back-talk you. Be ready to have a mouthy toddler if you get a hound! 

Finally, working dogs. These guys are some smart cookies. They’re alert and watchful and certainly strong-willed. Working dogs perform several tasks like guarding property, rescue missions, pulling sleds, being little menaces. I’m kidding, but they can get incredibly destructive and grumpy if they aren’t given a task to perform. These dogs typically require a lot more attention and responsibility, so they may not be the best choice for first-time dog owners. Falling in this category are the Bernese mountain dog, Siberian husky, Alaskan malamute, and even the great dane. 

When choosing a dog, it’s important to do some research on the breed beforehand. All these dogs plus the ones we’ll go over next week have their own unique needs. And even still, just because a dog is a hound or a working dog, doesn’t mean they’re going to perfectly match that “breed standard”. Great Danes may fall under the working dog class, but I know some incredibly lazy Danes. They don’t need a job and quite frankly, they don’t want one. Each dog is special in their needs and wants, so it’s also important to do a meet and greet or even fostering before officially bringing them home!

Dog Tolerances

Emilee Brewer

Some dogs love all dogs, some like a few, and others still only like themselves. Just like people, dogs have their preferences! There are three types of dogs: dog avoidant, dog selective, and dog tolerant. A puppy could be dog tolerant, but as they grow older they become more avoidant. But what do these three classifications mean and how do you determine what your dog is feeling? Let’s find out!

Dog tolerant means the dog is fairly social. They like other dogs or at minimum, they’re indifferent to them. Most puppies start as dog-tolerant. Different environmental factors and genetics can change their disposition as they get older. Socializing your dog is an excellent way to make sure they stay dog tolerant but just know that it may not always be enough. When socializing an animal, there’s always a chance something could go wrong which leads to them becoming dog selective.

Dog selective simply means they like some dogs and not others. When making my daycare groups, I’m always careful of who I put together. I’ve been in this position long enough to know each dog’s disposition pretty well. I know who likes who and who hates who. But we do occasionally get new dogs in that I know nothing about and I have to be very careful who I put them with. It’s always helpful when the parents fill out the little questionnaire explaining how their dog behaves with others, but sometimes they may not have the full picture.

Your dog may get along great with the neighbor's dog, but they also see them every day. This is an entirely new environment with new people and new dogs, and there’s no guarantee everyone will get along. The questionnaire gives me a basic idea of their behavior so I can better gauge who they’ll do well with. I also have dogs that I default to when I’m unsure. There’s a great dog that’s one of our regulars who I go to when I need to gauge a new pup. She’s calm but can also be playful, so she gives me a great meter on how the new guy is going to be.

Dog avoidant or dog reactive means they do not like other dogs. This could be from poor socialization, genetics, or their environment, could be they simply love the one-on-one attention and don’t want to share their person! It’s not necessarily a bad thing if they’re dog-avoidant. Proper training can help ease any anxiety or fear the dog may be feeling around others. But what’s nice about Francis Kennels is that we still take in dog-avoidant pups for daycare. They still get the enrichment and outdoor time of daycare but in a dog-free environment!

Understanding your pup's emotional state will help you determine how they’re feeling around other dogs. Some signs of distress to look out for is yawning, excessive panting, whale eye, and growling. They’ll also hold their mouth closed really tightly. These signs can help you decide when it’s time to take your dog out of the situation. Conversely, if your dog is having fun, watch out for a relaxed body. Tail will be wagging, their body can wiggle waggle too from happiness. When they’re happy, their mouth will be held gently and have a soft c-shape to it. Knowing the differences between these behaviors will help you determine if your dog is having fun with other dogs or about to freak out. Always closely monitor playtime so nothing bad happens!

So there it is. Is your dog avoidant, tolerant, or social? No one attitude is better than the other, and here at Francis Kennels, we can accommodate all three!

Is Daycare Right for Me?

Emilee Brewer

While doggie daycare can offer many benefits, it can also have drawbacks, and I want you to be well-informed before bringing your pup. Not every dog will thrive in a daycare situation, so let’s discuss the pros and cons! 

One of the main reasons people bring their pooch to daycare is for socialization. My dog is reactive to other dogs (and sometimes people) and honestly, it’s a little embarrassing when he’s losing his mind and the other dog is just cool as a cucumber. Socializing them is important so they don’t freak out in new environments and meeting other animals or people. Socialization can increase their confidence and help them learn to navigate new experiences. Poorly socialized dogs can develop behavioral issues like anxiety or even aggression. Daycare provides a safe environment for them to experience new dogs and people and how to handle them. 

Another reason people bring their dogs to daycare is for mental stimulation. I have a lazy dog. He curls up in a little circle on the couch and does not move until he needs the bathroom. This may work for my couch potato dog, but other dogs need that stimulation or they can become destructive. Nobody wants to come home to a couch ripped to shreds, so daycare is an excellent way for them to get that excess energy out. They get to run around and play with friends and destroy the facility’s toys instead of your furniture. It’s a win-win! 

Additionally, daycare can provide a much-needed break from your animal. Who hasn’t gotten overwhelmed by their dog? Especially if you have a high-energy puppy or a working dog. Similar to a human child, dogs depend on us for their survival and sometimes it can be a lot! Dropping them off at daycare gives you a few hours of peace and quiet while they’re safe and having fun. Think of it like sending them to summer camp! They come home exhausted and fulfilled and you get a little reprieve from their energy. 

Now, there are many other benefits to daycare, but at the risk of this post getting too long, let’s touch on a few cons to give more of a full picture. One drawback is that daycare can be overwhelming. If a dog is used to being alone, suddenly being surrounded by three or four other dogs can be scary. Plus dogs are barking in other groups, there are people they’ve never met before. Think of it like the first day of school. It’s scary being in a new environment with new people and not knowing the routine. Dogs also get overwhelmed and they can act out because of it. 

Daycare also puts dogs at risk of getting sick. While we require certain vaccines, there is still the potential of a bug being spread around. It’s on the owner to make sure their sick pup stays home, but sometimes a dog can be asymptomatic and then they get their friends sick and the dogs around their run get sick and before you know it, everyone is barfing. Again, it’s just like school; one toddler gets sick and then suddenly the whole class is out. 

Finally, much like people, dogs pick up habits from their friends and it may not be the best habits. Say little Spot likes to bark at dogs passing by. Scooter has never done that before but now he’s barking at all the dogs on your walk because his buddy was doing it at daycare. These behaviors can be deterred with regular training, but it’s easier to prevent the habit from developing in the first place. 

So is daycare right for your dog? That entirely depends on the individual dog. If they’re prone to being anxious or getting overly riled up, it may be best to keep them home or take them somewhere that can give them more one-on-one attention. If you have a dog that is bursting with energy, daycare can be a great way for them to get their zoomies out. It all comes down to how your dog acts on their own and around others. You also want to research each daycare facility and take a tour if possible, before making any decisions. How does the staff interact with the animals? How many dogs are in a group and how many people are supervising? Does the facility use proper sanitation techniques to lower the risk of illness? There are lots of factors in choosing a daycare facility so make sure you do lots of research!   

On The Fence

Emilee Brewer

Have you ever noticed your dog gets weirdly angry when there’s a barrier between them and another dog? Whether it be a fence, a window, or a baby gate, they just get absurdly mad they can’t get to that dog (or cat, or squirrel, or person). This is what’s known as barrier aggression or barrier frustration. Basically, a dog is absolutely livid something is stopping them from getting to something they want. Don’t they understand they’re being stopped and should accept their fate? Maybe it’s not that straightforward, so let’s dive into barrier frustration in this week’s post!

Barrier frustration presents itself as lunging, barking, and/or growling while being held back by some kind of barrier. There are multiple triggers for barrier reactivity including other dogs, a cat, squirrels, the mailman. It can be anything that they want, but it’s on the other side of this wall. This doesn’t necessarily mean the dog is aggressive though! I’ve got several daycare dogs that get grumpy when there’s a fence between them and their friends, but are absolute angels once that fence is gone. They’re just mad they can’t get to their friends! However, it’s still important to slowly introduce new dogs to each other if they’re displaying barrier aggression just to be safe.

While barrier frustration can appear to be aggressive, it’s usually from fear, overexcitement, stress, or anxiety. Maybe a car passes by and honks their horn. It can startle your dog, and now they’re at the window barking their head off because they can’t get to the car, and rip its tires to shreds. This would be an example of a fear response that leads to barrier frustration. Maybe they see their best bud taking a walk but can’t get to them because there’s a fence in the way. They’re overly excited and again, appear to be aggressive because there’s a barrier. It can be a number of reasons for barrier aggression, and it’s important to identify why they’re behaving this way. Undue stress can lead to health complications for your dog (panting, pacing, shaking) or cause unwanted behaviors like destroying your furniture to get their energy out.

So let’s talk about how to correct barrier frustration. First, you want to identify what is causing the reaction. For example, if your dog is freaking out because there’s trick-or-treaters at the door, try placing them in another room with calming music that can mask the sound of the doorbell constantly going off. Give them treats every time they don’t react. Determine what your pup’s threshold is. If they’re so hyped up they refuse treats, they’re beyond their threshold and should be removed from the situation to try again later. Keep exposure sessions short so as not to overwhelm them!

Barrier frustration is honestly one of the funnier phenomena to me. Dogs get so incredibly bothered because they’re being stopped from eating that squirrel. I’ve got a sibling pair that comes for daycare that will be perfect in the yard together, but as soon as there’s a fence between them, they start fighting. That’s your brother! Why are you fighting him because suddenly there’s a fence between you?! Regardless, you always want to be careful when a dog is showing frustration. It doesn’t necessarily mean they’re going to become aggressive, but they’re getting pretty peeved off, and then everyone is having a bad day because the dog is being a sourpuss. Just remember, don’t overexpose your pooch to their trigger and give them lots of treats for demonstrating behaviors you want to see!

Valuable Vaccines

Emilee Brewer

Vaccines are vital tools for combating diseases in humans, and it’s no different for dogs! Always consult your vet for what vaccines are recommended, as there are “core” and “noncore” vaccines. Here at Francis Kennels, we require your pet to be current on three vaccines: bordetella, rabies, and distemper. Let’s dive into how vaccines work and what exactly we’re protecting against! 

Vaccines work by imitating an infection and engaging the body’s natural defense system. There are three ways the antigen is introduced into the body. One way is with a weakened or dead bacteria or virus. The second way is by the form of a bacterial toxin that has been treated to make it nontoxic, and the third way is made up of genetic materials of the virus or bacteria. Antibodies identify and neutralize foreign substances in the body, such as a virus, and the white blood cells then begin attacking it. White blood cells multiply until the threat is taken care of and then they slowly decrease their numbers until only a few are left to keep watch over everything. While you can still get infected after getting a vaccination, vaccines help to greatly reduce symptoms and significantly lower chances of death. 

Bordetella bronchiseptica is one of the bacteria that can cause kennel cough which is just a catch-all term for an upper respiratory infection. This infection causes horrible coughing fits, runny nose, trouble breathing, and lethargy. When the animal coughs or sneezes, little infected droplets shoot out and land on other animals or surfaces. This bacteria can survive on surfaces for hours, days, or months. Because it gets transmitted so easily and lives so long on surfaces, it’s incredibly difficult to get rid of. The Bordetella vaccine is huge if you board your dog, and take them to dog parks or daycare. Being in such close proximity to other pooches makes kennel cough a super spreader. Proper hygiene and sanitization are key when dealing with kennel cough, but even better is to get a vaccine to help prevent it in the first place!

The next vaccine we require is rabies. Rabies is a terrifying disease and can be transmitted to humans. Once symptoms appear, it is 100% fatal, so getting the vaccine is extremely important. Rabies is a viral disease that affects the central nervous system. The rabies virus presents itself in an animal’s saliva, so it’s typically spread through a bite, but can also be spread through scratches. According to WHO, the incubation period for rabies is usually 2-3 months, but it also depends on varying factors such as the location of virus entry and the viral load. Rabies begins with fever, difficulty swallowing, excessive drooling, wobbly gait, and seizures. One of the most well-known symptoms of rabies is foaming at the mouth, but it may not always present itself as “foaming” and could just be lots of drool. As the disease progresses, paralysis sets in and the animal begins losing control of their muscles. This makes swallowing difficult and eventually breathing becomes impossible. Rabies cannot be diagnosed through bloodwork. The only 100% accurate testing is through a brain biopsy. If it’s suspected that your dog has been exposed to rabies, they can get boosters to lessen the chance they contract the virus. However, if symptoms appear, the most humane thing to do is have your dog euthanized. Getting the vaccine and subsequent boosters will help prevent this horrible disease and allow your pet to live a long, healthy life. 

The final vaccine needed is distemper. Distemper is a contagious disease that attacks the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems of dogs. The virus attacks the cells of the immune system, which then puts the dog at risk of contracting other, more dangerous diseases. Starting with the respiratory and gastrointestinal systems, dogs may experience discharge from the eyes and nose, lethargy, coughing, fever, vomiting, or diarrhea. Then the virus goes after the nervous systems and dogs begin displaying neurological signs such as walking in circles, a head tilt, seizures, lack of coordination, and even partial or complete paralysis. Distemper is spread through bodily fluids such as saliva or urine. There is no cure for distemper and very little can be done to ease the symptoms. It’s mostly fluids to maintain hydration if they have diarrhea and vomiting, and medication to help prevent secondary infections. The vaccine for distemper is usually a combo vaccine called DAPP that protects them from various other diseases as well. DAPP is considered a core vaccine and is recommended that all dogs get it. 

Years of research have been done in developing vaccines, and they are extremely important in maintaining your dog's health. They also protect your pup’s friends and keep them safe and healthy too! Contact your vet for any further questions you may have, but let’s all do our part and keep everyone fit as a fiddle!

What's The Scoop on Poop?

Emilee Brewer

Does your dog enjoy a defecation delicacy? Do they like a fecal matter platter? Have a literal sh*t-eating grin? Well, you’re not alone! As disgusting as it is, poop-eating is actually a widespread trait in dogs. The real question, though, is why do they do it? The answer may surprise you.

While coprophagia, or poop eating, hasn’t been studied extensively, there are several theories of why it happens. One possible reason is a nutrient deficiency. Take rabbits for example. Their diet isn’t the easiest to digest, and they lose some important vitamins and minerals. To combat this, they eat their poop to get all the good stuff on the rebound. So are dogs doing the same thing? Maybe. Coprophagia is so common that it’s hard to believe that so many dogs are vitamin deficient. However, some diseases could cause poor absorption of nutrients, so they may be trying to regain those lost chemicals. Additionally, diseases that increase their appetites like diabetes or even thyroid problems, could lead to poop eating. A study showed that greedy eaters and multi-dog households were more inclined to eat their feces.

Another theory for coprophagia is that it is instinctual, leftover memories of their wolfy ancestors. If food was scarce, poop would have leftover fat, protein, or maybe even little bits of undigested food. It’s also a good way to hide your trail from any potential predators.

But the leading theory is that it’s all behavioral. It could be stress, anxiety, boredom, isolation. According to the AKC, “spending too much time confined in a small space can cause a dog to develop a poop-eating problem. It’s not unusual to see coprophagia in dogs rescued from crowded animal shelters”. If your dog is left home alone for long periods, they may eat their poop because they have nothing better to do with their time. It can also be simply to avoid punishment! Who hasn’t gotten mad at their pooch for taking a poop on the floor? If they know they’re going to get in trouble, they’re going to hide the evidence. Always make sure the punishment fits the crime so they don’t feel the need to shame eat.

So should you be worried about poopy mouth? Obviously, you shouldn’t encourage the behavior, but the majority of the time, it won’t lead to any ill effects. However, depending on what the dog eats or what was present in the poop, it can lead to diseases or parasites. Always consult your vet if you’re concerned about your pet's health and especially if they start eating poop out of nowhere!

Regardless of why dogs do it, no one wants to see their cuddly canine chowing down on some crap. Thankfully there are a few ways you can combat this behavior! Consulting with your vet will help you determine any underlying medical conditions that can be easily rectified with new meds, a change in diet, or even vitamin supplements. There are also taste-aversion products available. There are powders you can sprinkle on their food that will consequently make the poop much less appetizing. Just remember, if you have multiple dogs, you need to use the powder for all of them so all their poop is less tasty. Finally, if the poop-eating is behavioral, pinpoint why exactly their doing it. Boredom? Give them some treat puzzles or stimulating toys so they have something more entertaining to do.

As gross as coprophagia is, humans do some gross things too, so don’t be so hard on your pups if you catch them eating a little snack!